# Norway Road Trip

[Canonical page](https://jeffd.org/stories/norway-2026/)

A day in Copenhagen, followed by a road trip through Norway with Mom. Fjords, mountain roads, and visits to farms and relatives on my mother's side of the family. Photographs from August 2026.

Updated: 2026-10-02T15:49:14.000Z

## Day 00 — Copenhagen prelude

SUNDAY · AUGUST 16 · PRELUDE · NORDHAVN to NORDHAVN

I spent a day in Copenhagen on my own before meeting Mom for our trip to Norway.

![A quiet Audo Residence room with warm timber walls, a small stone table, and a pale bed](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-audo-room.jpg)

AUDO RESIDENCE · 13:23 · My room at Audo Residence.

![Tan cover embossed with the words Audo Residence](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-audo-book.jpg)

NORDHAVN · A DAY TO MYSELF · The Audo Residence book in my room.

- SPIRE COMPLETED: 1752
- CIRKELBROEN: 5 PLATFORMS
- BACK IN NORDHAVN: 20:24

### A day to myself in Copenhagen.

I was staying at Audo Residence in Nordhavn. I had the afternoon to walk around [Copenhagen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copenhagen) before meeting my mother the next day.

### INTO THE OLD CITY

I headed into the city through [Nyboder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyboder) and over to [Rosenborg](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosenborg_Castle), taking photographs along the way.

![Black-and-white escalators crossing beneath bands of station light](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-station.jpg)

Down through the station, into the city.

![Ochre Nyboder row house beneath a steep red-tile roof](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-nyboder.jpg)

The ochre rows of Nyboder.

![A cyclist passing a tall wall of ivy in Copenhagen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-ivy-cyclist.jpg)

A bicycle passing the ivy wall. · COPENHAGEN · 14:30

![Small red hydrant standing against a dense wall of green ivy](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-ivy.jpg)

A red hydrant against the ivy.

![Rosenborg Castle beyond a broad lawn beneath summer clouds](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-rosenborg.jpg)

Rosenborg across the afternoon lawn.

![Red timber corner building with white windows near Rosenborg](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-red-corner.jpg)

A red corner just beyond Rosenborg. · COPENHAGEN · 14:42

### Along the waterfront to Christianshavn.

From Krøyers Plads, I continued along the water to Christianshavn. I climbed [Vor Frelsers Kirke](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_of_Our_Saviour,_Copenhagen) before crossing [Cirkelbroen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circle_Bridge) and heading back to Nordhavn.

![Angular brick and concrete buildings rising above the Copenhagen waterfront](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-kroyers-plads.jpg)

The waterfront buildings at Krøyers Plads. · KRØYERS PLADS · 16:23

![Timber waterfront building reflected beneath a line of red roofs](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-harbor-timber.jpg)

Reflections below the waterfront warehouses. · THE HARBOR · 16:27

![Golden reeds in front of red waterfront warehouses and a moored boat](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-harbor-reeds.jpg)

Reeds along the harbor edge. · COPENHAGEN · 16:28

![Frederik's Church dome seen across the Copenhagen harbor](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-frederiks-church.jpg)

Frederik's dome across the water. · ACROSS THE WATER · 16:37

![Brick warehouse wall painted with the words Art is everywhere and a white arrow](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-art-everywhere.jpg)

Art is everywhere, painted on a warehouse wall. · CHRISTIANSHAVN · 17:20

### Up the spire at Vor Frelsers Kirke.

The staircase wraps around the outside of the spire. From the top, I could look out over the rooftops and canals I'd been walking past all afternoon.

The exterior staircase at Vor Frelsers Kirke.

MODEL BASED ON HISTORICAL DRAWINGS

The model shows the upper spire and its exterior staircase. It uses de Thurah's historical drawings and photographs for reference. The upper turns are compressed, and the materials, railing details and sculpture are approximations.

- HEIGHT TO FLAG: 90 M
- EXTERIOR TURNS: 4
- OUTSIDE STEPS: 150

[NATIONALMUSEET · ELEVATION, SECTION + PLANS · PUBLIC DOMAIN](https://samlinger.natmus.dk/dmr/asset/174031)

[NATIONALMUSEET · DANMARKS KIRKER · CONSTRUCTION RECORD](https://danmarkskirker.natmus.dk/uploads/tx_tcchurchsearch/KobenhavnBy2_463-635.pdf)

[VOR FRELSERS KIRKE · OFFICIAL TOWER DESCRIPTION](https://www.vorfrelserskirke.dk/history-tourists/our-saviours-church-copenhagen)

[PHOTOGRAPH · CHURCH SPIRE, CHRISTIANSHAVN · 2018](https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Church_spire,_Christianshavn,_Copenhagen_%2830191066057%29.jpg)

[Interactive study and sources](https://jeffd.org/stories/norway-2026/#day-0)


![Copenhagen rooftops and harbor beyond the gold railing and exterior stairs of Vor Frelsers Kirke](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-spire-staircase.jpg)

Looking down the outer staircase at Vor Frelsers Kirke. · FROM THE CHURCH STEEPLE · 18:09

![Copenhagen rooftops, towers, and canals seen from the steeple of Vor Frelsers Kirke](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-rooftops.jpg)

The view from the steeple of Vor Frelsers Kirke. · FROM THE CHURCH STEEPLE · 18:15

![The dark spiral spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke with gold railings and a gilded figure above the street](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-vor-frelsers-spire.jpg)

The spiral spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke, seen from the street. · VOR FRELSERS KIRKE · 18:39

![Sunlight behind the masts and red railings of Cirkelbroen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-cirkelbroen-light.jpg)

The sun behind Cirkelbroen. · COPENHAGEN · 18:47

![Red rails and circular masts of Cirkelbroen beside a brick waterfront warehouse](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-cirkelbroen.jpg)

Cirkelbroen, the last crossing. · CIRKELBROEN · 18:48

### How Cirkelbroen opens.

The bridge has five circular platforms. Two stay in place while the other three turn together to open a passage for boats. This model follows the published plans, with an opening of about twenty seconds.

[Interactive study and sources](https://jeffd.org/stories/norway-2026/#day-0)


![A long hallway beneath sloping windows and dark roof beams at Audo Residence](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day00-audo-evening.jpg)

Back in Nordhavn, under the roof beams. · NORDHAVN · 20:24

Back in Nordhavn. Norway tomorrow.

## Day 01 — Copenhagen to Ålesund

MONDAY · AUGUST 17 · COPENHAGEN to ÅLESUND

Mom and I flew from Copenhagen to Ålesund. I photographed Hardanger Bridge from the plane, four days before we drove across it.

![Morning light crossing an attic window at Audo Residence](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day01-audo-morning.jpg)

Morning at Audo Residence before our flight.

![Hardanger Bridge crossing Eidfjorden, seen through clouds from the aircraft's left window](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day01-fjord-arrival.jpg)

HARDANGERBRUA · ≈13:43 · Hardangerbrua below the left wing, on the flight from Copenhagen to Ålesund.

- ARRIVAL DUE: 14:10
- BY THE WATER: 16:20
- OVERNIGHT: ÅLESUND

### Our first afternoon in Ålesund.

We came into [Ålesund](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%85lesund) from Vigra airport and went for a walk along the harbor. Later in the week, we'd visit relatives and some of the farms connected with my mother's side of the family.

### ÅLESUND

We spent the afternoon walking around the harbor, past timber warehouses and waterfront houses, with a small lighthouse at the entrance.

![Sakte fart sign painted on a red harbor wall](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day01-sakte-fart.jpg)

A Sakte fart sign by the water.

### Staying in Ålesund.

We had another full day here before setting off for Trollstigen and Geiranger.

Our first night in Norway.

## Day 02 — A day in Ålesund

TUESDAY · AUGUST 18 · ÅLESUND to ÅLESUND

We spent the day in Ålesund, with a view from Aksla in the morning and a visit to KUBE in the afternoon.

![Ålesund and its harbor seen from Aksla on color film](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day02-film-r01-02.jpg)

AKSLA · 10:46 · GOLD 200 · Ålesund from Aksla on Gold 200.

- CITY FIRE: 1904
- REBUILDING: 3 YEARS
- OVERNIGHT: ÅLESUND

### Ålesund from Aksla.

We drove up to Aksla to see the city from above, looking across the harbor and islands toward the open sea. I hadn't expected so many references to [Kaiser Wilhelm II](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilhelm_II) around town. He was a regular visitor to the Norwegian coast and sent aid after the [fire of 1904](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%85lesund_fire), when much of Ålesund had to be rebuilt.

### ABOVE ÅLESUND

The harbor and islands from Aksla, photographed with my iPhone 17 Pro and Hasselblad 503CW.

![Ålesund and its island harbor seen from Aksla viewpoint](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day02-aksla.jpg)

Ålesund spread across the islands below Aksla.

### One more night in Ålesund.

After visiting [KUBE](https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kunstmuseet_KUBE) in the afternoon, we were back by the waterfront in the evening. The next morning we'd leave Ålesund for Trollstigen.

![Waterfront houses and a church in warm evening light](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day02-film-r01-05.jpg)

Evening light along the Ålesund waterfront. · ÅLESUND · 20:17 · GOLD 200

Tomorrow, Trollstigen.

## Day 03 — Trollstigen to Geiranger

WEDNESDAY · AUGUST 19 · ÅLESUND to GEIRANGER

We left Ålesund for Trollstigen, then continued through Valldal and down to Geiranger.

![The Trollstigen approach road disappearing into fog](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-climb.jpg)

TROLLSTIGEN · 09:18 · The road disappeared into cloud before the climb.

![Distant trees disappearing into fog near the Trollstigen road](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-mist-road.jpg)

THE FOOT OF THE PASS · 08:59 · The morning began inside the fog.

- FIRST FRAME: 08:59
- AT THE BEND: 10:01
- FJORD VIEW: 12:51

### Fog below Trollstigen.

There was fog at the foot of [Trollstigen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trollstigen). As we climbed, we could see more of the valley and the road winding up behind us.

![Low mist above a green field beneath steep mountains](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r01-09.jpg)

Mist across the fields before the climb. · TROLLSTIGEN APPROACH · 09:02 · GOLD 200

![Sunlit grass and trees below a mountain ridge](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r01-11.jpg)

The fields emerged from the morning fog. · TROLLSTIGEN APPROACH · 09:08 · GOLD 200

### TROLLSTIGEN

Photographed with my iPhone 17 Pro and Hasselblad.

![A stream running down bare rock above Trollstigen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-rock-and-stream.jpg)

Water running down the mountainside. · TROLLSTIGEN · 09:38

![Cloud above the rocky slopes of Trollstigen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-cloud-above-pass.jpg)

Cloud lifting above the pass. · TROLLSTIGEN · 09:38

![The road curving into the sunlit Trollstigen valley](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-valley-road.jpg)

Looking back along the road. · TROLLSTIGEN · 09:43

![A stone parapet above the Trollstigen valley](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-stone-parapet.jpg)

The valley beyond the stone parapet. · TROLLSTIGEN · 09:43

![A mountain road curving above the Trollstigen valley](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r02-01.jpg)

The road above the valley. · TROLLSTIGEN · 09:43 · PORTRA 400

![The hairpin bends of Trollstigen seen from above](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-hairpins.jpg)

The hairpins at Trollstigen.

![Sunlight and shadow across a steep mountain ridge](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-sunlit-ridge.jpg)

Sun on the ridge above the hairpins. · TROLLSTIGEN · 10:02

![Cars crossing the Trollstigen road beside Stigfossen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-waterfall-road.jpg)

The road crossed Stigfossen below the overlook.

![Trollstigen switchbacks descending through the valley](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-hairpins-overlook.jpg)

From above, every switchback was visible.

![Two travelers at the Trollstigen overlook](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-overlook-portrait.jpg)

A portrait above the hairpins.

![Stigfossen rushing beneath the stone bridge at Trollstigen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-waterfall.jpg)

Stigfossen fell under the bridge.

![Black-and-white view of hairpin bends on the steep valley floor](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r08-02.jpg)

The hairpins on Pan 50. · TROLLSTIGEN · 10:10 · PAN 50

![Cloud along the mountains above the winding Trollstigen road](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r02-06.jpg)

Cloud still caught on the valley walls. · TROLLSTIGEN · 10:11 · PORTRA 400

![A sharp rock face and cloud above the road in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r08-04.jpg)

The mountain wall above Trollstigen. · TROLLSTIGEN · 10:20 · PAN 50

![A steep rocky peak above small cabins on the Trollstigen plateau](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r02-09.jpg)

Small cabins beneath the peak. · TROLLSTIGEN · 10:29 · PORTRA 400

![A cloud-topped mountain ridge beyond dark foreground rocks](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r02-11.jpg)

Cloud crossing the ridge. · TROLLSTIGEN · 10:34 · PORTRA 400

![The angular visitor center reflected in its pool](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r02-12.jpg)

The visitor center reflected in the water. · TROLLSTIGEN · 10:39 · PORTRA 400

### On to Geiranger.

After Trollstigen, we drove through Valldal and took the ferry across the fjord. We stopped at Ørnesvingen to look down over [Geirangerfjord](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geirangerfjord) before the final descent into [Geiranger](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geiranger).

![A traveler standing above Geirangerfjord](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-fjord-portrait.jpg)

Above the fjord before the final descent. · ABOVE GEIRANGER · 12:51

![Geirangerfjord and distant mountains beneath scattered cloud](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r03-03.jpg)

Another frame across Geirangerfjord. · ØRNESVINGEN · 12:54 · EKTAR 100

![A small boat beneath the cliffs of Geirangerfjord in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day03-film-r08-08.jpg)

Geirangerfjord on Pan 50. · ØRNESVINGEN · 13:09 · PAN 50

Geiranger below us.

## Day 04 — Geiranger to Vangsnes

THURSDAY · AUGUST 20 · GEIRANGER to VANGSNES

We drove up to Dalsnibba, stopped at Bøyabreen and Hopperstad, and ended the day beside the fjord in Vangsnes.

![Black-and-white view of mountain peaks rising above cloud from Dalsnibba](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-dalsnibba-clouds.jpg)

DALSNIBBA · 08:48 · Peaks rose above the morning cloud.

- LEFT GEIRANGER: 07:50
- DALSNIBBA: 08:48
- VANGSNES: 19:18

### Above the clouds at Dalsnibba.

We left Geiranger early and drove up to [Dalsnibba](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalsnibba). At the top, the rocks were in sunlight and the valley was hidden under cloud.

### DALSNIBBA

We walked around the summit, looking out over the cloud below. There was still snow between the rocks.

![Two people on a rocky summit above clouds in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r08-11.jpg)

Two figures at the edge of the summit. · DALSNIBBA · 09:01 · PAN 50

![A cloud-filled valley between dark mountain slopes in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r09-01.jpg)

The valley remained under cloud. · DALSNIBBA · 09:04 · T-MAX 400

![Rock, snowfields, and a small pool high on Dalsnibba](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-dalsnibba-snowfield.jpg)

Snow between the rocks at Dalsnibba.

![Rock and small waterfalls above drifting cloud in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r09-02.jpg)

Water running down the rock below the summit. · DALSNIBBA · 09:07 · T-MAX 400

### Bøyabreen, then across to Vangsnes.

We drove through Loen and stopped at [Bøyabreen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%B8yabreen) before taking the ferry to [Vangsnes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vangsnes). We also visited Hopperstad Stave Church in Vik, then returned to the fjord.

![Pink wildflowers above a mountain lake and steep rock slopes](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-lakeside-flowers.jpg)

Wildflowers beside the road down from Dalsnibba. · BELOW DALSNIBBA · 09:30

![Norwegian mountain road entering a tunnel](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-tunnel-road.jpg)

Back down to the road, then west through the mountain. · THE ROAD WEST · 09:35

![Green mountains reflected in the glacial lake at Bøyabreen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-glacial-lake.jpg)

Beside the lake at Bøyabreen. · BØYABREEN · 12:55

![Turquoise glacial water beneath the exposed rock and ice of Bøyabreen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-boyabreen.jpg)

Bøyabreen at the head of the valley. · BØYABREEN · 12:59

![Meltwater descending a green mountainside beneath the glacier](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r03-12.jpg)

Meltwater below Bøyabreen. · BØYABREEN · 13:06 · EKTAR 100

![Black-and-white view of the glacier high on a dark mountainside](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r09-04.jpg)

Bøyabreen on T-Max 400. · BØYABREEN · 13:07 · T-MAX 400

![A traveler beside the glacial lake beneath Bøyabreen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-glacier-portrait.jpg)

At the lake below Bøyabreen. · BØYABREEN · 13:11

### Hopperstad Stave Church

We stopped at [Hopperstad](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hopperstad_Stave_Church) in Vik, one of Norway's medieval [stave churches](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stave_church). It dates from around 1130, although much of the exterior we saw comes from restoration work in the late 1800s.

- BUILT: c. 1130
- RESTORED: LATE 1800s

[Church history](https://fortidsminneforeningen.no/en/museum/hopperstad-stave-church/)


![Dark timber exterior of Hopperstad Stave Church](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-hopperstad.jpg)

Hopperstad Stave Church. · HOPPERSTAD · 16:14

![The stacked roofs of Hopperstad Stave Church in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r09-05.jpg)

Hopperstad beneath a cloudy sky. · HOPPERSTAD · 16:15 · T-MAX 400

![Painted medieval carved face inside Hopperstad Stave Church](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-hopperstad-carving.jpg)

Painted carvings inside Hopperstad. · HOPPERSTAD · 16:24

### Fridtjov at Vangsnes

The Fridtjov monument felt enormous for such a small village: 22.5 meters tall, including its stone pedestal. It depicts Fridtjov the Bold, a legendary hero whose home [Frithiof's Saga](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frithjof%27s_Saga) places at Vangsnes. Kaiser Wilhelm II admired Esaias Tegnér's retelling of the saga and commissioned the German sculptor Max Unger to make the monument as a gift to Norway. Wilhelm and King Haakon VII attended its unveiling in 1913.

[Monument history](https://www.kringom.no/nb/indre-sogn/vik/fridtjov-statuen-pa-vangsnes)


![Low view of the Fridtjov statue with its sword and stone plinth](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r09-10.jpg)

Looking up at Fridtjov. · VANGSNES · 19:01 · T-MAX 400

![Sunlight breaking through dark clouds across the Sognefjord](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day04-film-r04-05.jpg)

Evening light across the Sognefjord. · VANGSNES · 19:18 · EKTAR 100

Fridtjov above the fjord.

## Day 05 — Vangsnes to Lillehammer

FRIDAY · AUGUST 21 · VANGSNES to LILLEHAMMER

A long, rainy drive from Vangsnes to Lillehammer, with stops at Vøringsfossen, Bøle, and Reinli along the way.

![Vikafjellet in low cloud](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/vikafjellet.jpg)

VIKAFJELLET · 09:56 · Rain over Vikafjellet.

![A mountain cabin on dark rock](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/vikafjellet-cabin.jpg)

THE PASS · RAIN COMING IN · A cabin above the road in the rain.

- WATERFALL DROP: 182 M
- BRIDGE MAIN SPAN: 1,310 M
- REINLI: EARLY 1300s

![Graphite field sketch of Vøringsfossen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/sketches/voringsfossen-field-sketch.png)

### Rain over Vikafjellet.

We left Vangsnes and climbed past Vik into low cloud. The road crossed Vikafjellet before dropping toward Voss.

![A pale mountain lake surrounded by low grassy hills](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r04-09.jpg)

A pale lake beside the road over Vikafjellet. · VIKAFJELLET · 09:56 · EKTAR 100

![A mountain lake and bare grassy hills in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-01.jpg)

Vikafjellet on T-Max 400. · VIKAFJELLET · 09:56 · T-MAX 400

![Low cabins above a lake under grey cloud in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-02.jpg)

Cabins above the lake. · VIKAFJELLET · 09:58 · T-MAX 400

![Grassy slopes and small cabins above a mountain lake](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r04-10.jpg)

Cabins on the wet plateau. · VIKAFJELLET · 10:12 · EKTAR 100

### Across Hardanger Bridge.

We came through Vallaviktunnelen and its underground roundabout, then out onto [Hardanger Bridge](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardanger_Bridge). I'd photographed the same bridge from the plane on our way to Ålesund.

The crossing from Vallaviktunnelen to Butunnelen.

MODEL BASED ON ROAD DATA AND CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS

The road follows Statens vegvesen's NVDB map data. The bridge model uses the public K401, K451 and K929 construction drawings. The surrounding rock and tunnel interiors are simplified so the route is visible.

- MAIN SPAN: 1310 M
- TALLEST PYLON: 201.5 M
- VALLAVIK PORTAL: 23 M

[Statens vegvesen K929 general elevation and deck section](https://eu.eu-supply.com/app/rfq/publicpurchase_docs.asp?AllowPrint=1&LID=297296&PID=253605)

[Statens vegvesen K401 and K451 tower form drawings](https://eu.eu-supply.com/app/rfq/publicpurchase_docs.asp?AllowPrint=1&LID=297296&PID=253605)

[Aas-Jakobsen Hardanger Bridge reference](https://www.aas-jakobsen.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Hardanger_referanse_eng.pdf)

[Statens vegvesen road and tunnel facts](https://www.vegvesen.no/nn/vegprosjekt/fullfort/hardangerbrua/vegtunnel/)

[Source](https://nvdbapiles.atlas.vegvesen.no/vegnett/api/v4/veglenkesekvenser/segmentert?vegsystemreferanse=RV13S32D1&inkluderAntall=true&antall=100&srid=5973)

[Interactive study and sources](https://jeffd.org/stories/norway-2026/#day-5)


### VØRINGSFOSSEN

We spent more than an hour at [Vøringsfossen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%C3%B8ringsfossen), walking around the canyon and stair bridge and following the river upstream. The fog came and went while I took photographs.

![A river winding below towering cliffs and fog in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-03.jpg)

The first view into the canyon. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 12:02 · T-MAX 400

![Vøringsfossen dropping into a mist-filled canyon](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/voringsfossen-hero.jpg)

Fog lifted long enough to see the canyon.

![A river far below in a mist-filled canyon](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r06-01.jpg)

The river appeared through the mist. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 12:18 · GOLD 200

![Light falling into a deep canyon above a white river](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r06-02.jpg)

Light reached the bottom of the canyon. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 12:25 · GOLD 200

![A sheer rock wall disappearing into low fog](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r06-04.jpg)

Fog along the cliff edge. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 12:48 · GOLD 200

![A cliff face and waterfall half hidden by fog](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/voringsfossen-mist.jpg)

Then the fog closed in again.

![Rust-colored cliff with a slender waterfall](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/voringsfossen-cliff.jpg)

Thin falls ran down the rust-colored cliff.

![Low fog over birch woods and a grassy hillside near Vøringsfossen](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-fog-on-plateau.jpg)

Fog across the hillside above the falls. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 12:57

![A traveler standing on the Vøringsfossen stair bridge](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/voringsfossen-stairs.jpg)

The metal stairs were slick with spray.

![A white river running through birch woods below a rounded hill](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r06-07.jpg)

Above the falls, the river crossed the plateau. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:10 · GOLD 200

![Birch woods and a river below a cloud-covered mountain](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r06-08.jpg)

The river and birch woods above the falls. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:14 · GOLD 200

![White rapids among dark rocks below a wooded mountain](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-05.jpg)

The rapids on T-Max 400. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:20 · T-MAX 400

![A river running through birch woods beneath a cloudy mountain](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r06-10.jpg)

Following the river above the falls. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:20 · GOLD 200

![A foaming river below a stone arch bridge in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-06.jpg)

Water under the stone bridge. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:22 · T-MAX 400

![A traveler in a yellow jacket beside the Vøringsfossen canyon](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-canyon-portrait.jpg)

Below the stair bridge at Vøringsfossen. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:23

![The angular stair bridge spanning the gorge in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-07.jpg)

The stair bridge across the gorge. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:23 · T-MAX 400

![Rapids below a stone arch bridge in the mountain valley](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r06-11.jpg)

The stone bridge upstream. · VØRINGSFOSSEN · 13:25 · GOLD 200

### Across Hardangervidda to Valdres.

The rain continued as we drove east across [Hardangervidda](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardangervidda). At the [Ørteren rest area](https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/hardangervidda/orteren/), beside the lake, we read a plaque about the Hoth scenes in [The Empire Strikes Back](https://www.starwars.com/news/hoth-behind-the-scenes). In March 1979, the snowfields around [Finse](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finse) and the [Hardangerjøkulen](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardangerj%C3%B8kulen) glacier became the outdoor setting for the frozen planet and its Rebel base. Storms buried the crew's prepared trench and blocked the railway. They filmed Luke collapsing in the snow just outside their hotel, with the camera sheltered in the hallway. We continued to Bøle and Reinli in Valdres, then on to [Lillehammer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lillehammer).

![Lake Ørteren beneath low clouds on Hardangervidda](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r05-01.jpg)

Lake Ørteren beside our stop to read about the filming of The Empire Strikes Back. · ØRTEREN · 14:36 · PORTRA 400

![Route 7 at Ørteren among rocks and low shrubs under heavy cloud](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r05-03.jpg)

Route 7 at the Ørteren rest stop. · ØRTEREN · 14:45 · PORTRA 400

### Bøle

My great-grandmother Inda Boley was born in America, and her father's family came from Bøle. A relative told us how his grandfather sold the farm in 1912, regretted it, and bought it back two years later. The family has kept it since.

- FARM SOLD: 1912
- BOUGHT BACK: 1914


![A shovel beside a yellow timber wall and stone steps](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r05-07.jpg)

A shovel beside the yellow wall at Bøle. · BØLE · 17:56 · PORTRA 400

![A shovel against a yellow timber wall beside stone steps](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-yellow-wall.jpg)

The yellow wall at Bøle. · BØLE · 17:56

### Reinli Stave Church

[Reinli Stave Church](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reinli_Stave_Church) dates to the early 1300s. Earlier generations of our family from Bøle attended services here. Mom had visited before, but this was my first time. We reached the church shortly after six.

- TIMBER DATED: 1323–1326
- MEDIEVAL CROSSES: 12

[Church history](https://snl.no/Reinli_stavkirke)


![Reinli Stave Church above a rough stone wall in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-08.jpg)

Reinli above the stone wall. · REINLI · 18:15 · T-MAX 400

![Reinli Stave Church framed by a dark gateway in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-09.jpg)

The timber gate on T-Max 400. · REINLI · 18:17 · T-MAX 400

![Reinli Stave Church framed by its gate](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/reinli-stave-church.jpg)

Reinli Stave Church in the evening. · REINLI · 18:20

![Reinli Stave Church against distant hills in black and white](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r10-12.jpg)

A final black-and-white frame at Reinli. · REINLI · 18:25 · T-MAX 400

![Carved wooden detail on Reinli Stave Church](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/reinli-detail.jpg)

Dragon head on the west gable. · DRAGON HEAD · 18:26

![Reinli Stave Church behind a dark wooden fence](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-film-r07-05.jpg)

One more frame from the fence. · REINLI · 18:26 · PORTRA 800

![Cows crossing a wet road through a forest](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day05-cows-on-road.jpg)

Cows on the road to Lillehammer. · TOWARD LILLEHAMMER · 19:50

Arriving in Lillehammer.

## Day 06 — Family farms near Biri

SATURDAY · AUGUST 22 · LILLEHAMMER to LILLEHAMMER

We visited Steig, Dala, and Bergum, three farms connected with our family near Biri, then returned to Lillehammer and the ski jumps at Lysgårdsbakkene.

![A person in shadow beside a candlelit table and bowl of apples](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-table-portrait.jpg)

DALA · 17:04 · Around the table at Dala.

- FARMS VISITED: 3
- LEFT LILLEHAMMER: 10:15
- BACK IN TOWN: 19:58

### Family farms near Biri.

We spent the day visiting Steig, Dala, and Bergum. Each farm connects to a different part of our family on my mother's side.

### Steig

My great-great-grandfather Andreas Olsen was born at Vestre Steig in 1834. The family-history book Steig 1641–1995 includes our American branch, and I'm in it too. Andreas married Eline, who was born at Dala.

- ANDREAS BORN: 1834
- BOOK COVERS: 1641–1995

### Dala

My great-great-great-grandfather Even Kristoffersen came to Dala in 1841. He farmed and made scissors here. His daughter Eline, my great-great-grandmother, was born here in 1850. We sat around the table in the old timber house, where the owner showed us Even's scissors and gave Mom a pair.

- EVEN ARRIVED: 1841
- ELINE BORN: 1850


### DALA

Inside the old timber house and outside by the turf-roofed cabin.

![A man seated in a timber room with a bright window behind him](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-farm-portrait.jpg)

Inside the old timber house at Dala.

![Two people talking beside a green table in a timber room](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-family-story.jpg)

Talking around the table at Dala.

![Iron shears and a candle on a worn wooden tabletop](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-table-tools.jpg)

Scissors made by Even Kristoffersen, my great-great-great-grandfather.

![Dark timber cabin with a turf roof among birch trees and ferns](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-turf-roof-cabin.jpg)

The turf-roofed cabin.

### Bergum

Bergum is Mom's maiden name. My great-grandfather Anton's family lived at the farm before he left for America in 1905. I first met our relatives here in 2002. My third cousin, Jon Karsten, mentioned that there was exposed rock behind the farm. Berg means rock or mountain.

- ANTON EMIGRATED: 1905
- MY FIRST VISIT: 2002

[The word berg](https://ordbokene.no/bm/berg)


### An evening at the ski jumps.

I explored the ski jumps at [Lysgårdsbakkene](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lysg%C3%A5rdsbakken) and photographed some of the old iconography from the 1994 [Lillehammer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lillehammer) Olympics.

![Golden grain above a sunlit lake and distant hills](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-film-r07-10.jpg)

Evening sun across the water near Lillehammer. · LILLEHAMMER · 19:27 · PORTRA 800

![The Lysgårdsbakkene ski jumps beneath a pale blue sky](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-film-r07-12.jpg)

Looking up from below the jumps. · LYSGÅRDSBAKKENE · 19:37 · PORTRA 800

![A person in a yellow jacket standing below the Lysgårdsbakkene ski jumps](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-ski-jump-portrait.jpg)

Below the ski jumps at Lysgårdsbakkene. · LYSGÅRDSBAKKENE · 19:39

![Skier relief pressed into a concrete wall in Lillehammer](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day06-lillehammer-relief.jpg)

A skier in concrete on the return to Lillehammer. · LILLEHAMMER · 19:58

Back in Lillehammer.

## Day 07 — Bobsleigh and the road museum

SUNDAY · AUGUST 23 · LILLEHAMMER to LILLEHAMMER

We rode a wheeled bobsleigh at Hunderfossen, then visited the road and vehicle museums nearby.

![Start gate of the Lillehammer Olympic bobsleigh track](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-track-start.jpg)

THE START · 11:05 · The start gate above the track.

![Three riders seated together in the wheeled bobsleigh](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-bobsleigh-portrait.jpg)

THREE RIDERS · 11:14 · Three riders, just before the run.

- COMPETITION TRACK: 1,365 M
- CURVES: 16
- OUR RUN: 69 SEC

### Bobsleigh in summer.

We went to the [Olympic track](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lillehammer_Olympic_Bobsleigh_and_Luge_Track) at Hunderfossen, just north of [Lillehammer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lillehammer), for a bobsleigh run. In summer, the sled runs on wheels.

### Down the track.

The course winds through the trees and finishes with an uphill runout. Olympiaparken advertises the summer [wheelbob](https://www.olympiaparken.no/en/aktiviteter/hjulbob) at up to 100 km/h and 3G. On ice, its winter passenger ride, the [taxibob](https://www.olympiaparken.no/en/aktiviteter/taxibob), can reach 120 km/h and 5G. [Racing bobsleds](https://www.slidingfestival.no/en/sporten) can approach 140 km/h. The strongest G-forces come in the bends, pressing riders into the sled. This model shows the full track.

Sixteen curves through the forest, followed by the climb into the runout.

MAPPED COURSE · RECONSTRUCTED CHANNEL, BANKING AND SLED

The course follows OpenStreetMap data, checked against the published track plans, with ground elevations from Kartverket. The channel, banking and sled movement are approximations. This is a model of the course, not a recording of our run.

- COMPETITION: 1365 M
- CURVES: 16
- OFFICIAL DROP: 114.3 M

[Lillehammer Olympiapark / International Luge Federation track map](https://www.fil-luge.org/cdn/uploads/lillehammer.jpg)

[Byggekunst 5-6/1993 situation plan, 1:1000](https://old.arkitektur-n.no/uploads/images/1993/nr-5-6-1993/BK-nr-5-6-1993-s-376.jpg)

[International Bobsleigh & Skeleton Federation](https://www.ibsf.org/en/track/20/)

©Kartverket · CC BY 4.0

[© OpenStreetMap contributors · ODbL](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/275004406)

[Interactive study and sources](https://jeffd.org/stories/norway-2026/#day-7)


### THE RUN

We dropped through the pine forest on wheels, banking through sixteen curves before the track climbed into the runout. The bends pressed us into the sled. The finish board clocked the descent at sixty-nine seconds.

![View down the track from inside the wheeled bobsleigh](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-bobsleigh-cockpit.jpg)

The track dropped away from the cockpit.

![Bobsleigh track map and finish display at Lillehammer](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-finish-board.jpg)

Sixty-nine seconds from start to finish.

### The road museum and a Troll car.

After the run, we visited [Norsk vegmuseum](https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norsk_vegmuseum) and its vehicle-history museum at Hunderfossen. Among the cars was a [Troll](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Troll_%28automobile%29), a Norwegian car made in Lunde in Telemark with a fiberglass body.

![Weathered Lillehammer Olympic marker among pine trees](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-olympic-marker.jpg)

The Olympic rings beside the track. · HUNDERFOSSEN · 11:33

![Sunlight through red checked curtains onto a table in a timber room](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-museum-window.jpg)

A sunlit window at Norsk vegmuseum. · NORSK VEGMUSEUM · 12:01

![A cream-colored Troll car with a red T badge in the vehicle museum](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-troll-car.jpg)

The Troll car at the vehicle museum. · TROLL · 13:11

![Two people seated in a red vintage car](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-red-car-side.jpg)

Inside a red car at the museum. · NORSK VEGMUSEUM · 13:27

![Front view of two people in a red vintage car beneath a roof rack](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day07-red-car-front.jpg)

The same car, seen through the windscreen. · NORSK VEGMUSEUM · 13:27

Back to Lillehammer after the museum.

## Day 08 — Lillehammer to Oslo

MONDAY · AUGUST 24 · LILLEHAMMER to OSLO

We took the train south to Oslo along Lake Mjøsa, then met a relative from the Bøle side of our family and his wife.

### The train to Oslo.

We followed Lake Mjøsa south, passing Hamar on the way to [Oslo](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oslo) Central Station. We had a few more days in Oslo before returning to Paris.

### Family photographs in Oslo

In Oslo, we met Lars, a relative on the Bøle side of our family, and his wife, Kirsten. He showed us old photographs and maps of the farm and talked about the relatives who stayed in Norway and those who moved to America. My grandfather had always wanted to visit Norway.


Arriving in Oslo.

## Day 09 — A day on foot in Oslo

TUESDAY · AUGUST 25 · BJØRVIKA to EGERTORGET

Our last full day in Norway. We walked through Oslo, from the waterfront to Akershus and the Nobel Peace Center.

![MUNCH museum rising above golden grasses beside the Oslo waterfront](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day09-munch.jpg)

MUNCH · 10:21 · MUNCH above the waterfront grasses.

- BY THE FJORD: 10:21
- AKERSHUS BUILT: c. 1300
- LAST FRAME: 16:44

### Starting by MUNCH.

We started by [MUNCH](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munch_Museum) on the waterfront in Bjørvika, then walked west to [Akershus Fortress](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akershus_Fortress). Akershus began as a medieval castle around 1300.

### AKERSHUS

We walked around the fortress walls, with views across the fjord. I stopped to photograph a sentry box and a bench against a red brick wall.

![A guard beside a white sentry box and a red military-area sign at Akershus](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day09-akershus-guard.jpg)

At the edge of the military grounds.

![Akershus stone ramparts and a red brick building above the Oslofjord](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day09-akershus-fjord.jpg)

The fjord below the fortress walls.

![An empty bench against a red brick and timber wall in dappled shade](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day09-akershus-brick.jpg)

A bench in the shade at Akershus.

### The Nobel Peace Center.

We visited the [Nobel Peace Center](https://www.nobelpeacecenter.org/en), next to the National Museum. Later, we walked back into the city to Egertorget, beneath the Freia sign.

![A gold-colored medal displayed against a black background at the Nobel Peace Center](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day09-museum-spoon.jpg)

A medal on display at the Nobel Peace Center. · NOBEL PEACE CENTER · 13:48

![The red Freia sign and clock above a white building under a blue Oslo sky](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day09-freia.jpg)

The Freia sign above Egertorget. · EGERTORGET · 16:44

Back to Paris tomorrow.

## Day 10 — The return to Paris

WEDNESDAY · AUGUST 26 · OSLO to PARIS

I flew back to Paris, and Mom returned to the U.S.

![Rows of circular skylights in a concrete ceiling at Paris Charles de Gaulle airport](https://jeffd.org/media/stories/norway-2026/photos/day10-paris-terminal.jpg)

PARIS CHARLES DE GAULLE · 11:43 · The terminal ceiling at Charles de Gaulle.

[SAS SK837 · AUGUST 26 · RECORDED FLIGHT PATH](https://globe.adsbexchange.com/?icao=4ac9eb&showTrace=2026-08-26)

Back in Paris.